11 pm
surf was fun mid morning..then it got funky for a while..but as i said..off and on it was good today..
the last hour of daylight was phenominal...
super clean glassy surf till dark...
inside bars were rockin..
10 people out...MAJOR STOKE THIS EVENING FOR THOSE WHO CAUGHT THE EXCELLENT LONGBOARD CONDITIONS...WAIST HIGH WITH CHEST PEAKS...
8:49 A.M.
SWELL HAS BEEN COMING UP OVERNIGHT..
SURF IS WAIST TO CHEST..BUILDING
WE SHOULD SEE CHEST TO SHOULDER HIGH SURF BY NOON OR SO.
SOLID SWELL TODAY.
FORM IS FAIR AT TIMES...BETWEEN THUNDERSTORMS PASSING OVER..
SO SURF WILL BE FUN,, OFF AND ON THROUGHOUT THE DAY..
GET SOME IF YOU CAN..